Fakarava

Polynesia, again and again...

Certain people would get tired of it perhaps, others never – me for example.

Its five-star reputation attracts a lot of people, but it remains quite easy to avoid the mass charters and anchorages. It must be possible to drop anchor in tens of thousands of places in Polynesia.

We are now leaving these fabulous, extraordinary, fantastic…I’m getting carried away, but you have to admit, the Marquesas rock!

I’ll leave you to listen to Jacques Brel describing the world in his melody when you arrive for the first time in Fatu Hiva – thrills guaranteed.

Around 150m wide and 60 km long, Fakarava is surrounded by superb water.

The wall of sharks in the northern pass. An unforgettable moment!

A beach, an anchorage, a dream!

To avoid the coral heads, you sometimes have to get higher…

There are 4 of us in the anchorage, yet our catamaran seems to be alone, as if it were meditating…

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Published 24/05/2018

By Jonathan Jagot

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Issue: 160

Published: july / aug. 2018

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So we are leaving, with heavy hearts…but let’s not exaggerate, we’re going to the Tuamotus now!

In short, after a three day sail, here we are in the northern pass of the second biggest atoll in the Tuamotus, Fakarava.

We have heard a lot of good things about it. All we have to do now is test all this; we will be uncompromising!

A good week will be enough to get round everything there is to see.

Between walks, dives, cycling, picnics, we haven’t had time to get bored, and as the icing on the cake, I passed my 1st level diving, certainly in one of the best spots in the world, yes, yes...

A spot not to be missed by anyone who is mad about diving and…beautiful anchorages!

TO DO / TO SEE:

A very nice activity on Fakarava is a bike ride! Not to be missed, as the coast is superb. Your legs won’t suffer, the atoll is as flat as a pancake!

Bikes can be rented quite cheaply in the dive clubs or the hotels.

Talking of diving, you must above all not miss the atoll’s northern pass…

How can I describe to you how wonderful it is? I have never seen such diversity, such underwater fauna. You will pass through the wall of grey sharks, hundreds of them letting themselves be carried by the powerful current in the pass; huge napoleonfish drift between the coral heads, followed by shoals of brilliant-colored fish.

You won’t have any problems finding a dive club…that’s all there is here!

The Top Dive sign is situated just in front of the atoll’s north anchorage, where you can leave the dinghy.

ANCHORAGE/POSITION:

We anchor opposite the town (!) of Rotoava. Situated in the north of the atoll, it’s visibly here that there are most boats, compared to the southern anchorage: there are 4 of us…

We are obviously very well protected from the waves, but the wind easily passes over the 150m of land which separates us from the ocean.

Holding is quick and effective; there is just sand and a few coral heads – to be avoided of course.

The position of the anchorage: 16°03’.750S / 145° 37’.185W

There is room for a few dozen boats, so for just the four of us, things aren’t too crowded!

The water is so ...

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