A Contre Temps in the Marquesas

“Concerning the ‘local’ medicines. Question from the youngest sailor: “what can we treat with traditional medicines? The same things as with chemical medicines?” Reply from Meteraï, big man, tattooed on his face, former charter crew at Raiatea, fisherman, singer, sculptor: “we can’t tell you everything, because otherwise the medicines would lose their power, and then we only give them to those people who believe in them, otherwise people would say that the medicines aren’t effective, and they would also lose their power.” The captain had to leave for Papeete, for some medical examinations. A mama from Nuku Hiva said to him: “go and do your examinations, to see what you have, and when you come back, I’ll give you the local medicines and then you will be cured.” Concerning tattoos. Fa’ra is 50 years old and is tattooed on his face. The youngest sailor asked in carefully chosen phrases, if he would explain. He had drawn the motifs he was wearing himself: “on my face, I have my ancestry. I am tattooed on my face because I am proud of where we come from, and if you are proud, you show it. Why would I hide my ancestors?” The captain asked him “but if you have an ancestor you aren’t proud of, what do you do?” Answer: “you don’t include him.” Concerning marriage. For marriage: Guy, a cruising friend, sails singlehanded. He was just hanging around in Ua Pou and met a man who was surprised by his single status: “you should have a wife, because if you don't have a wife, it’s like having a pirogue without an outrigger.”

Cécile and Joni aboard: A Contre Temps
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