Indonesia - An encounter with the fishermen of Riung

Destination - Indian Ocean

Riung is a charming little town on the north coast of the island of Flores, Indonesia.

It’s an ideal place to discover the local culture. Riung’s inhabitants belong mainly to the Bajo ethnic group, renowned for their mastery of sailing and fishing. You can visit their traditional villages along the coast of Flores, often featuring houses built on stilts over the water. This is an opportunity to learn more about the local way of life and age-old traditions. The Bajo are also renowned for their expertise in shipbuilding. For centuries, they have lived aboard traditional boats called “phinisi” or “epa-lepa”, and have sailed the waters of the Indonesian archipelago, and even further afield. They developed a strong relationship with the sea, using their seafaring skills to fish and travel between islands.
Over time, some Bajo settled permanently in coastal villages on Flores. However, many continue to practice traditional sailing and fishing, while retaining their distinct cultural identity. Bajo villages along the Flores coast are often characterized by stilt houses built above the water.

What to see/do

One of the most popular attractions when passing through Riung is to visit nearby Kelimutu - well, it’s still a 5-hour bus ride, but it’s hard to get any closer by boat! Flores, a volcanic island and thus part of the Ring of Fire, is famous for its three colorful lakes, which change their hue unpredictably. The Kelimutu lakes are a breathtaking sight and are considered one of Indonesia’s most amazing natural phenomena.

Without having to take the bus and staying in the Riung anchorage, simply take the dinghy and sail a mile or so north of the anchorage through the mangroves at sunset. An incredible sight awaits you.
Indonesia’s flying foxes, also known as giant flying foxes, gather in their hundreds. They are also known as fruit bats.
These flying mammals belong to the Pteropodidae family and are the world’s largest bats.
These amazing creatures are frugivores, feeding mainly on fruit, nectar and pollen. Their large teeth and elongated tongue enable them to feed efficiently on the ripe, juicy fruit they find in canopy trees. As natural pollinators, they also play an essential role in seed dispersal and the regeneration of tropical forests.

Weather

During the dry season, which generally runs from May to October, the waters around Flores tend to be calmer, with moderate to no wind. This time of year is not particularly windy at all. Days are sunny and rainfall is infrequent. Temperatures remain pleasant, averaging around 77 to 86°F (25 to 30° C).
However, during the rainy season from November to April, marine weather can be more unpredictable. Winds can be stronger and showers more frequent, with occasional thunderstorms and periods of heavy rain. Sailing conditions can be more difficult.
It’s also worth noting that the Flores region can be prone to tropical cyclones during the rainy season, mainly between December and March.

Anchorage

8 24.557’S - 121 1.666’E
We anchored in 40 to 42 feet (12-13 meters) of silty and sometimes rocky seabed.
The anchorage is very well protected from almost all winds except those from the north.

The waters around the Riung anchorage are mostly calm and sheltered, but it can be exposed to the north.

Did Hitchcock’s “The Birds” scare you? Then Indonesia’s flying foxes might just spook you...

The village of Riung is primarily dedicated to fishing, as evidenced by its imposing jetty.

A Riung resident.

Some of Indonesia’s coral reefs are damaged, but the island of Flores still conceals some beautiful treasures below the surface, accessible by dinghy and then by snorkeling.